Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2000/06/16
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Kip- Just an aside, as someone who has had a couple of IIIc bodies... still have one, but I think it was 'fixed'! The IIIc bodies after the war were prone to a few problems- one, the chrome- as we all know, was thin as it was apparently a 'strategic' material and hard to get so a lot of IIIc cameras show considerable pitting of the chroime, Two- the RF beamsplitter tended to become dim as all I have ever seen tend to lose the silvering on the beamsplitter. Three, most IIIc bodies I have seen, even the first one I bought- had shutter curtains that looked like they were made of old oilcloth tablecloths! They had a myriad- actually , of cracks, and leaked like light an old cracked window shade! The upside is that the IIIc, being very common and not all that collectible is fairly cheap, and I had DAG put in new curtains, CLA the thing, and for an extra $25 a new beamsplitter (Do they really still make them, or are these re-silvered ones salvaged?) Once done, it was light tight, bright, and smooth as butter. IF you don't have a particular fetish about a flash synch, the IIIc is one of the best deals in Leica LTM going. As fae as changing lenses.... I just turn my considerable bulk, backside to the light, and change away- never had a problem! Dan ( I'll be good, now....) Post - ----- Original Message ----- From: Kip Babington <cbabing3@swbell.net> To: <leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2000 1:45 PM Subject: Re: [Leica] problem > I had occasion to check the light tightness of my M6 shutter recently, because I > was checking an obviously leaky IIIc and decided just to see how the M6 fared > under the same circumstances. I used a bright spotlight in my darkroom, with a > rest that put the camera body with the lens mount facing the light. My meter said > it was about 4 stops down from sunny 16. The film (Delta 400, which I normally > rate @ 250 and develop in PMK pyro) showed fogging at both 20 and 40 seconds on > the first curtain (i.e., with the shutter cocked) just barely perceptible fogging > at 20 seconds on the second curtain and slight fogging at 40 seconds on the second > curtain (but not as bad as at 20 seconds on the first curtain.) The fogging > begins about a millimeter or two from what would be the top of the image (bottom > of the camera) and does not have an absolutely crisp top edge, so I'd guess that > it's not coming through the curtain material itself but around the edge and being > reflected from the channel in which the shutter moves. The fogging fades away > toward the center of the frame, and at its widest the band is about 3mm wide. > There is a narrower and less dense band that appeared at the bottom of the frame > on the first curtain (very slight at 20 seconds, somewhat worse at 40), but not on > the second curtain. > > I was surprised to see any fogging at all (although this was much better than the > IIIc I was checking out) and even more surprised to see a difference between the > first and second shutter curtains. I don't know if my camera is typical, but this > is an easy test to perform with the last few frames on a roll if anyone is curious > about their own body. I'm certainly more careful about changing lenses now, and > if I know I'm going to change after a shot I try to remember not to wind the film > first. > > I'd be interested to know if any of the rest of you have had similar (or > different) experiences? > > Cheers, > Kip > > John Collier wrote: > > > In the M manuals it warns against changing lenses in direct sunlight. It > > recommends, and I have always successfully followed, that you shade the > > camera with your body. The light trap where the shutter curtains meet is not > > absolutely light tight and under direct sunlight with no lens it will leak. > > > > John Collier > > > > > From: "Tofu" <topher@netvigator.com> > > > > > > Anyway, whenever i change the lenses on my m6, i've always had to be careful > > > not to do it in direct sunlight, or i get some 'additional exposure' on the > > > frame currently underneath the lens.....i kinda thought this was just a > > > hazard that came with cloth shutters, but after ruining some nice shots, i'm > > > really starting to get annoyed (at myself!). Is this actually just from > > > cloth shutters, or is my shutter coming apart? The marks are quite large, > > > though not very severe, so i don't think it's just little pinholes....and it > > > definately occurs only when i change a lens... > > > any advice? TIA........... > > > tofu! > > > anyone ever used the nocti for infrared? > > > >