Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2008/04/21
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Steve: It has to do with the range of the RF roller adjustment that will result in acceptable focus with each lens. The lenses are calibrated to a standard, like the body. But in the real world, things may not be quite right, and the M8 is less forgiving than with film--in other words, the tolerances before things go awry are less. Note: The diagrams below will only look correct if you are using a Monospace font like Courier to view your email. Think of a yardstick and a 1-foot ruler placed on a table, with the ruler below the yardstick. Now imagine that the yardstick is the adjustment range that work with the 50/2 Summicron, and the ruler is the range that will work for the Noctilux at f/1. I've pictured it below. The asterisk represents where the RF roller is adjusted. Here is how your wide-open Noct and M8 may been set, before you adjusted the camera: (Fig. 1) |SummicronSummicronSummicron| |Noctilux| * As adjusted above, the camera will focus properly with the Summicron, but not with the wide-open Noct. However, we could adjust it so that the focus is OK with the Noct, and still be OK with the Summicron. Below is what you probably did: (Fig. 2.) |SummicronSummicronSummicron| |Noctilux| * The problem with the Noct is that if you stop it down 2 or 3 stops, you get something like this: (Fig. 3) |SummicronSummicronSummicron| |NoctiluxNoct| * Now there is no way to get the Noct exactly right without messing up your other lenses like the Summicron. The Summicron also focus shifts a little bit when you stop down 2 or 3 stops, but nowhere near as much as the Noct. So you might get the typical M8 "all depth of field in back of the point of focus," but things are still usable with the Summicron. Not with the Noct. (Fig. 4) |SummicronSummicronSummicronSummicron| |NoctiluxNoct| * On film, the shift is less than with either lens. The problem still exists, but it is within tolerance for the Summicron, and still visible (though less) for the Noct: (Fig. 5) |SummicronSummicronSummicronSummicron| |NoctiluxNoct| * Does this make sense? In real life, the initial position of the RF roller adjustment may vary, (asterisk) as may the calibration or the individual lenses (sideways position of the "ruler" or "yardstick." The point is that there is no absolute "perfect" point of focus. There is only a range of acceptable tolerances. With the M8, those tolerances are noticably smaller. It also appears that in order to get some lenses to focus correctly wide-open, the RF and lens are adjusted so that most of the DOF is behind the point of focus (Summicron in Fig. 4), rather than the classic 1/3:2/3 distribution most of us learned in the film era (Fig. 5). I'm sure the folks at Leica knew all this for a long time. It's just that in the film era, most of us didn't notice. The M8, with its instant feedback and stricter requirements, opened our eyes. The confusion exists because the above is not intuitive--most of us thing as focus as being either correct or not, and we don't think about focus shift. The situation has been made worse by quality control problems, used lenses that were out of adjustment, and perhaps by Leica initially adjusting lenses to a standard that was viable for film but insufficient for the M8. I don't understand if or how focus shift also varies with respect to subject distance. No one I've ever asked seems to understand it, either. Sometimes DOF seems to cover focus shift at longer distances. Some people have observed that focus shift is always the same amount of offset "twist" from what the RF tells us, so it may be in proportion to the subject distance, ie. linear with respect to the focus cam. This may break down at sufficiently large stops or long focal lengths. --Peter Steve Barbour wrote: > a wonderful review and summary Peter... > what I really don't understand is the following two points and their > (apparant) incongruity... > re fixing "back focus".... > we either change the set screw in the body with an Allen wrench, OR we > send our lenses somewhere, WITHOUT the body, to be adjusted... > if you can fix the problem by changing something in the body, how can > fixing the lenses with NO regard to the settings/status of the body > possibly work?