Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2011/01/10
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Try the HUG. As far as I know, the "C" lenses are the first of the newer lenses. Some have the T* coating and some don't. Try to get one with the coating as it provides more accurate color rendition and less flare. There are other differences, but minor if you get a flawless one. The greatest risk is the shutter is old and unused and screwed up. Then the CF lenses were made to be used with the?bodies that could shoot either the lens's leaf shutter or the body's focal plane shutter. The CFi lenses?are the newest and have improvements in the?internal baffling to reduce reflection and better leaf shutters in the lenses. There are also improvements in lens design, external design, etc. CFe lenses are the equivalent to the CFi lenses but have the electronic interface for the 2-- series bodies. All lenses are backwards compatible (e.g., the CFe lenses work with the 500 series bodies). FE lenses only work with the 2-- series focal plane bodies; they have no internal leaf shutter and are lighter and have larger aperture capabilities. If you have a 1.3 crop factor, edge performance is?irrelevant. I have all CF and CFi lenses and use them so I know the shutters are good.?My crop factor is 1.1 or, with film, 1.0. :-) I know Alistair on this list has a CFV back; I assume that's what you're considering. If so, the 50 or 60 (which you can find cheaper probably) would be normal (i.e. about a 75 -80 in MF). The 60 might be a better choice as it uses a Bay 60 filter like most the other lenses. The 50 CFi/FLE uses a Bay 70 and the 40 CFi/FLE requires a rather Rube Goldberg approach to have filter system ability. A 40 would be a 52 which is beginning wide angle. IMO not worth the cost of the 40 to only use part of it. The 30s are even more expensive, though I don't think they have a fisheye effect (especially cropped). Be careful of the screen you get on your body. Older screens are pretty dark. My advice would be to get a film back, shoot film and scan it with the Imacon at KSP.... You could scan hundreds of negatives/positives for much less than the cost of?a used back.... Bob Adler Palo Alto, CA http://www.rgaphoto.com ________________________________ From: John McMaster <john at chiaroscuro.co.nz> To: Leica Users Group <lug at leica-users.org> Sent: Mon, January 10, 2011 4:02:32 PM Subject: Re: [Leica] I need HUG and lens advice The 80mm is variable, some are excellent some are poor. The 100mm is a preferable lens IME. For the wide, it would either be an SWC/M of some vintage or a 40mm, latter probably cheaper. Former is preferable (I have owned 4 over the years) and you can put a ground glass screen on it to see exactly. The 40mm is quicker to use close-up or more accurately. The 50mm is more common if that is wide enough.... Just seen the crop factor, so a 60mm (not so common) will go to 78mm equivalent and a 38mm/40mm are the widest available bar fisheye. john > -----Original Message----- > > What's the "best" Hassy forum? I have a lot to catch up... > > the 80/2.8 Planar seems to be the standard lens. If I am most > interested in > (in 35mm FOV reference) 24mm and 50mm lens, what are the good CFx lens > in > that range, or are the Zeiss so good that there is no lemon? This is > with a > 1.3x crop factor. > > Thank you folks in advance and also to those who answered earlier. > _______________________________________________ Leica Users Group. See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information