Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2013/08/09
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]This week was really the first time I had used the Olympus VF-2 on the M for
'normal' photography, mostly had been for lenses (inc M on OUFRO) with no
links to camera.
So I picked the two 'tricky' lenses, f1.0 Noctilux and 75mm Summilux:
Using the EVF is not too fast, you turn camera on, then LV on rear panel
(puts image on rear screen) then a button on VF-2 to get image in there. If
it is in that configuration when you turn the camera off it returns to it
next time it is turned on.
This gives a v/f display of exposure mode (M or A), the shutter speed,
metering type and ASA at the top of the screen, out of viewing area. To get
the metering you then have to press the 'info' button on rear of camera,
this overlays the info on the image area.... It shows battery state, lens
(if 6 bit), WB, image type (DNGc etc) , number of frames left and a bar type
exposure meter. The exposure meter (in manual) is very similar to manual
metering on a DSLR. You then need to press the info button again to see
display fully. I often go back to metering on normal v/f as faster ;-)
However, as a right eyed photographer when I have used the EVF the optical
v/f is misted up as still winter here.
As for focusing, with a non-coupled lens you have to press a button on the
front to get magnified (5x or 10x in center of frame) view for focusing.
With a coupled lens this can be setup to come on when focus cam is moved,
this is how mine is configured. So with an M lens, point to towards subject
and focus, magnified image appears then half depression on shutter release
(or full if taking shot) goes back to full image. A bit slower than r/f but
a lot more accurate for many things, it really makes a difference with the
two lenses above. Another change with the EVF is getting an accurate framing
of your shot, much like a DSLR, which can be beneficial especially in closer
work.
Once you take a shot, where I can feel no appreciable lag, it is a good
second before you can take another - and that is with a fast SD card (if it
makes any difference). Also, as I experienced this week, it can often lock
up after the shot needing the camera to be turned off and on again to take
the next shot. You will also use a lot more battery power, I doubt one
battery would last a full day if taking a decent number of photos. In less
than 2 hours/50 shots mine went from 100% to 45%...
So critical focus and accurate framing at a slower shoot rate but I prefer
to use the r/f most of the time outside. The EVF helps with focusing and
framing, the former may not be such an issue with asph lenses but it can be
useful with some of the Mandler ones......
A couple of weeks back I took a mix of M9 and M shots in one PAW, nobody
really noticed any difference in images. I have not used the M9 since.
There are a few issues still with the M:
red edges with wide angle lenses, even on coded ones (e.g. 28mm
Summicron)
white balance, usually good but sometimes way off - usually in more
demanding situations but fine in daylight.
Some issues with flash, not tried personally ;-)
But other than that (and increased size/weight) it is an improvement over
the M9.....
john