[Leica] Just back from Cuba

[jplaurel at gmail.com (Jim Laurel)]

I just flew in from Havana. Here?s the scoop from the airport on the way 
home...

First of all, people from all over the world have been visiting Cuba for 
some time now. European chains are building high end resorts along the 
coast. We visited under the ?People to people cultural exchange? Treasury 
exception, but many Americans choose to visit illegally.

The Cuban people have suffered under both the embargo and the regime. Many 
people expressed elation on Wednesday after the big announcement, as if 
diplomatic relations and trade with the USA and more tourists would actually 
help their plight. Well, it?s a start. Maybe it will lead to internal 
change, but who knows. The Cubans are taking a wait and see attitude. They 
are smart enough to know that the President?s power is limited and only 
Congress can act to end the embargo altogether. The Cubans are a warm, 
beautiful and welcoming people. By and large, they love Americans and get 
visibly excited when you tell them you?re from the USA. Many reacted as if 
we were old friends coming home again. And, that?s pretty much the case. For 
the Americans among you, there is absolutely no reason to fear for your 
security in Cuba.

Cuba must proceed slowly because they simply aren?t ready for the crush of 
visitors that would come if the travel restrictions were dropped altogether. 
The infrastructure is barely adequate as it is in the main cities, let alone 
the smaller towns. There is construction all over Havana. Many streets are 
torn up as they install better sewage, water and electrical systems. Many of 
the old neighborhoods are being gentrified. At times, you think you?re 
somewhere in Spain or Italy. It will take time.

I must disagree with Duane, who said that there isn?t much between Havana 
and Santiago. In fact, most of my favorite places in Cuba are Camaguey, 
Remedios, Holguin, Baracoa, and around Guantanamo province.

The time to visit Cuba is NOW. This thaw between the US and Cuba will result 
in huge changes for Cuba. The time capsule has been cracked for some time 
and now it?s set to break wide open. It won?t be long before the iconic 
Chevys, Plymouths, Fords, Ladas and DeSotos that are so visually synonymous 
with Cuba are replaced with Chinese Geelys and Cherrys.

I had to laugh when I read the Cuba thread with all the talk about how to 
remain unobtrusive, carrying Feds and old Leicas. You?ve got to remember 
that you?re dealing with an urbane and sophisticated people here. The 
general level of education is very high. Don?t be surprised to learn that 
your waiter has an advanced degree. The truth is that, just by walking down 
the street in your latest adventure travel wear, with your pasty white skin 
and your half-forgotten high school Spanish, you?re going to stand out like 
a sore thumb. Throw in a Domke vest and Black Rapid dual harness and the 
picture is complete.

Everybody seems to carry a canvas satchel of some kind, so a simple Domke 
satchel would be good. I used a ThinkTalk Retrospective 7, which was just 
the perfect size for walking around all day. I carried my M240 with one lens 
(usually the 35mm Summilux), and my E-M1 with Oly 12-40 f/2.8, Pana 35-100 
f/2.8 and PanaLeica 25 f/1.4. To be honest, I would have saved a lot of 
trouble if I had just gone with my pair of EM-1s, which would have saved me 
a lot of lens changing. Just walking around with no bag and the M240 with a 
single lens was very nice too. You are limited to 2 camera bodies and a 
total of 10 accessories (the 2 bodies count as part of your allowance of 10, 
along with tripods, lenses, strobes, etc.)

We spent long days walking many of the smaller towns. Light weight is key. 
The weight of the M240 compared to my old M6s is significant. I found that I 
mostly used my E-M1, which proved to be a wonderful companion. Light weight, 
rugged, extremely fast in operation, with the fastest autofocus of any 
camera I?ve used, it is probably my favorite camera ever. When I was able to 
nail it with the Leica, the results were gorgeous, but nailing it with 
consistency was the problem. The E-M1, by contrast was always reliable. Pin 
sharp details and perfect exposure in almost every condition. Toward the 
end, I started getting lazy and began using face detection set to focus on 
the closest eye. Amazing.

Here?s the bottom line for photographing in Cuba.
- You?re going to be walking ALOT, so keep it light
- The edge light is beautiful, don?t forget at least one fast prime in 35mm 
or 50mm
- Carry a small satchel
- Gather and hoard your small coins. You always need them.
- Wear regular clothes, not adventure wear
- Get a tan
- Learn some Spanish and use it
- Be open and don?t be afraid to talk to people. Doors will open for you.
- Bring your smart phone to show people pictures of your family.
- Don?t be obsessed with maximizing your photo taking time. Relax and sit 
with people, talk to them. Prioritize human contact over photography.
- Be generous. It?s appreciated and needed.

One more thing. People are freezing cold during winter. Gather up your old 
jackets and long sleeve shirts and take them with you. Especially fleece 
jackets. People need them as it can get pretty cold.

I?ll post some images when I get home.

Merry Christmas to all of you!

?Jim Laurel