[Leica] A very very very long trip report.

[Jim Brick <jim@brick.org>]

Hi again folks,

This is a very very long report. Instead of dragging everyone through our
trip, I'm summarizing the Leica part up front. If you are interested in the
trip, you can read the rest. The Photokina stuff is at the 9/17 - 9/20
area. You might want to save this for a rainy day. Or push delete now.

LEICA SUMMARY

As some of you know, I took two R7's, 28/PC, 50/2, and 70-180 APO zoom,
numerous filters (pola, KR3, ND grad), an M6, 35/1.4 ASPH, 50/2, and
90/2.8. 40 rolls of Velvia, 40 rolls of MS 100/1000, 20 rolls of B&W, and
misc. stuff (E200, T400CN, etc.) I was chaperoning three women so I knew
ahead of time that I might not be able to do the photography that I really
wanted to do. I was correct. I ran six rolls of Velvia through one R7 while
in England visiting relatives. That made it easy for me to go off and do my
photographic thing. For the rest of the trip, the R7's didn't see the light
of day. My M6 was, however, my constant companion.

I was wearing a Photo Vest that I bought through the Hammacher Schlemmer
mail order catalog. It's made by Woolrich. I looked at the Domke, Tamrac,
Billingham, Banana Republic, but was unimpressed by them all. And all were
between $150 and $300. This Woolrich vest has the right pockets in the
right place for traveling with the M6. It is 100% cotton and only $89.95.
Hammacher Schlemmer is at 800-543-3366. The item is #60366. I had my 35/1.4
ASPH on the camera, the 50/2 in the left breast pocket, the 90/2.8 in the
right breast pocket. Heliopan 46 & 39mm polarizers in their case, in the
small zipper pocket below the 90/2.8 . This pocket exactly fits the two
filters. The left lower outside pocket contained film, and the right
outside pocket is split down the middle. I used the right half for exposed
film, the left half for a cable release and  hot shoe bubble level (Hama),
and clean micro fiber cloth. After the first week in England, as I said,
the R7's stayed packed. I used the M6 for the entire rest of the trip.
Central and southern England, Holland, Germany, and Switzerland. I used the
35/1.4 for 90% of my photographs, the 50/2 for 9.9% and the 90/2.8 for .1%
. Which leads me to the fact that I do not need the 90 and am going to sell
it. What I wanted, but did not have, was a 21/2.8 ASPH. So I will be
selling the 90 and, someday, buying a 21.

The rubber flat lens cap for the 35/1.4 ASPH is the greatest thing since
sliced bread! Easily fits in a pocket and slips on and off very quickly.
And it doesn't fall off. The little hook at the bottom does its job.


It is amazing how many times I used the 35/1.4 wide open. I took
photographs in the Amsterdam Red Light District using MS 100/1000 rated at
800, but developed for 1000. Everything at f/1.4 as the light level there
is very low. The photographs came out great. Fuji MS 100/1000 at 200 seems
to be a very capable film. Calypso Imaging, where I had it processed, did
not charge me for pushing as I had four complete batches for their dip and
dunk machine. They didn't have to run a special push run in between their
normal work. I ran a test roll and found that at EI 200, this film, at
Calypso, needs a 1-1/3 stop push.

I used a tripod some of the time with my R7. Later on I describe what I
fabricated to make this both easy and compatible with Tom's winder.

THE LEICA/LUG MEETING

The LUG meeting with Leica was interesting. I'm not sure anything was
accomplished, other than personal contact. I know Leica wants to hear about
your likes and dislikes. They are no different than any other large
company. They have a bottom line, stockholders, and board members to keep
happy. They have the ability (developed over many many years) to make the
finest lenses, but, like any company, there are humans in charge. These are
typically non-photographers, executives, like any other executive. The
marketing people are also no different. They are looking for buying trends,
market trends, etc. And they don't always get good information. Just like
any large international company. I liked the Leica people that attended the
meeting and I believe that they would like to hear from us. But some of the
gripes and comments from attending LUGgers were humorous. You sure see
individual agendas come out. "If you look at the images of HCB and the
like, they are sharp and great, why are you wasting time designing these
APO and ASPH lenses, to obtain the utmost in image quality, when it's clear
that the old lenses worked just fine?" I don't know who said that, but
that, and similar meaningless statements/questions were offered. This kind
of stuff is clearly not why Leica met with LUG members. This is a company
that is developing new products for the future. They want to know what real
photographers like and dislike about the current products. So they can
factor that in on new products. By not getting enough real meaningful
information, things like inconsistent speed dial, non dimming leds, etc.,
make their way into the product. Products like the R8 get placed on the
market way too soon. No "system" available, winders etc. not available, the
R8 and winders full of bugs... The marketing people need new stuff to
market so marketing pushes their own agenda. Anyway, communications
directly with the Leica people, in a clear and concise way, telling them
the kind of information that they really wanted to know... "Why did you buy
Leica equipment and why do you continue to use and buy Leica?" "What future
products would you like to see, and why?" "What do you dislike about the
current products and why?", is what is needed. Note the word future. Not
"the old lenses are great, don't waste your time on new lenses" kind of
stuff. Remember, nostalgia, old master photographer techniques, old lens
formulas, etc... will not sustain a large modern company. New, state of the
technology, and consistent designs, is where it has to be. If you want
Bokeh, buy an old lens. If you want the best resolution possible, buy the
new lenses. Generally speaking, professional photographers want high
resolution, color fidelity, good mechanics, good electronics, etc. They
want "sharp" at f/1 or f/1.4 . The R8 design is, as someone said in the
meeting, "like holding a woman". But it has to be consistent. Consistency
even means "being market ready."


THE VERY VERY LONG TRIP REPORT.
LOTS OF BORING NON-LEICA STUFF

I have to admit that being the chaperone, to three women, on an extensive
trip though Europe, is a lot of work. My wife, my daughter, and my
daughter's best friend. The girls are 18 and 19 years old. What is on their
mind most of the time is "boyfriends back home", and " where's the next
cool place to shop?" My wife is very allergic to cigarette smoke so much
time was spent trying to create a reasonably smokeless environment. Very
difficult outside of the USA. Here in California, we are really spoiled. It
is virtually illegal to smoke where someone else could possibly breath it.
Restaurants, bars, public places, stores, etc... My wife felt pretty bad
after a couple of hours at Photokina as the smoke was really dense and
heavy. Seems worse than in previous years??? So I did most of the Photokina
thing on my own. My wife and the girls went hiking, shopping, etc. They
came back in on the morning of the 19th to meet my fellow LUGgers. They
indeed enjoyed meeting you.

9/3 We left SFO at 07:45 Sept 2 and arrived in Manchester England at 08:15
Sept 3. We had all of our film in one gallon plastic zip-lock bags (32
rolls per bag - four rows of seven plus four rolls laterally across the
top), the bags zipped and folded over and taped tight so the rolls can't
move about. I used old clear Fuji canisters. SFO hand inspected them
without even a question. I had them all in a cloth bag which I handed to
them, they peered into the bag and passed it on without question. Doesn't
make one feel very safe. We got a car in Manchester (Volvo V40 wagon) and
drove to Bradford. Stopped in town for some sandwiches etc, then checked in
to the Marriott Courtyard at the pastures (at Tong Village). Nice hotel,
out in the pastures, next to a very old village. I had my M6 out and
started taking pictures of where we were etc. My daughter was sick upon
arriving at the Hotel - a bad sandwich at JFK eight hours earlier. My wife
(Jennie) and I visited Jennie's aunt that evening. I'm amazed that we were
awake as at this point we had been awake for more than 48 hours (didn't
sleep the night before we left.)

9/4 We were supposed to leave Bradford the next day (4th) but my daughter
hadn't recovered so we decided to stay. My daughter was feeling a little
better so we went to Bingley and walked along the canal to the locks. A set
of three and a set of five locks. Jillian was still weak but doing better.
My M6 was getting a lot of use as it was not reasonable to carry my R7's
and a tripod and spend the necessary time to do the Velvia thing. I used
Fuji MS100/1000 at EI 200 in my M6. 35/1.4 ASPH, 50/2 (new model), and
90/2.8 (new model). I bought a photo vest a few weeks earlier, made by
Woolrich, sold through a mailorder catalog Hammacher Schlemmer, $89.95 and
really functioned perfectly. A perfect pocket for everything. Passports,
tickets, film, etc. I lived in this vest for three weeks and swear by it.


We visited Jennie's aunt again, with the two girls this time. The next day
(5th), we checked out of the Hotel and visited where Jennie was born, her
old schools, her grandmothers house, etc. Unfortunately, most of everything
was gone. Jennie's school, and her second house were the only things still
standing. Progress I guess.

9/5 We then headed out to Haworth (the Bronte sisters are from here -
Wuthering Heights fame ), walked around, ate, and took M6 pictures, and
then headed north to Bellerby. Bellerby is 20 miles out of Richmond (where
they filmed one of the Robin Hood movies). Bellerby has a population of
about 150 and most houses are around 400 years old. Jennies other aunt
lives here. This is a great place. Lots of green fields, sheep, stone
fences, old buildings, streams, foggy mornings, etc. We decided to stay
here two nights. I got to run a few rolls of Velvia through my R7's. The
weather was mostly overcast, occasional rain, the sun peeked out also
occasionally. While walking and driving around with the girls, it was M6
100% of the time. Only when I got out alone, or with Jennie, could I spend
the time setting up and using the R7's. We walked all over Richmond and the
Castle (M6) as well as Bellerby.

M6, CARBON TRIPOD, TRIPOD MOUNT ON TOM'S WINDER:

I have to tell you about a tripod mount I adapted to Tom's winder. I took a
Kirk plate, just a square plate with a lip, placed it on the M6 winder,
screwed it in place, then marked on the Kirk plate, where the winder lever
is. I then removed the Kirk plate, cut the plate just behind the mark,
filed off the sharp edges, and screwed it back on the winder. My M6 now has
both a functional Abrahamsson winder and an Arca Swiss tripod mount. I took
my small Gitzo carbon tripod and a B1 quick release head. I also have a
Gitzo tripod carrying strap. The strap has an off center foam shoulder pad
and snaps that easily connect to the tripod. This allowed me to carry a
very lightweight tripod without bother, for use when I needed a great deal
of DOF. Even with EI 200 film, a polarizer and f/16 or f/22 (90 Elmarit),
puts you way below hand holding speed for scenics. After carrying the M6
for three weeks and shooting 60 rolls of film, I can truthfully and without
hesitation, say that the tripod mount on the bottom of the winder went
absolutely and totally un-noticed. It did not interfere with anything and
allowed me to use the winder lever at all times, except when on a tripod.
This turns out to be one of the slickest tricks I've dreamed-up.

9/7 We left Bellerby the morning of the 7th (two days later than originally
planned) and drove straight to Stratford-upon-Avon. Got there late but
found a nice (non-smoking) hotel directly on the edge of town (two minutes
walk from the canal lock.) The next morning (8th) we did the Shakespeare
and Ann which-a-ma-jigger (Hathaway?) thing and left for Banbury. Walked
through Banbury, ate lunch, then headed to London.

9/8 We arrived in London at 18:00 hours, drove directly to Waterloo station
as this is where we will take the Eurostar train on the 11th. I needed to
figure out how to drive there as our train leaves at 06:15 on the 11th. We
used a hotel service at Waterloo to find a hotel for us (three nights) and
paid for the first night there. We got to the hotel at 20:00 and discovered
it was a filthy scum bag flea trap! Hotel Castleton. So we had to set out
and find a new hotel. We did, directly across the street, the Hotel
Columbia. Very clean and neat. So the next two days (9th & 10th) are spent
roaming London. We parked the car in a garage near the hotel and used the
underground for everything. We took the train out to Windsor Castle. The
girls shopped 'till they dropped! My M6 was very busy throughout London. I
did not carry the tripod as London plus three women does not permit tripod
use. But my M6 and 35/1.4 ASPH worked wonders. Some polarizer stuff (Big
Ben, Westminster Abby, Windsor Castle, etc.) and inside stuff at f/1.4
(inside Westminster/Windsor/Tower of London, etc.). We had a good time in
London.


Sept. 11th, we were on the EuroStar at 06:15 heading to Amsterdam via
Paris. Watched the sunrise as we headed to Dover, then black for 20 minutes
through the Chunnel, and on to Paris. Changed trains and immediately headed
to Amsterdam. We arrived at the Amsterdam Shipol airport station at 15:00
hours. Got another wagon (Opel Omega), the biggest Avis had, and headed out
to get as close to Switzerland as possible. Only got to Oberhausen Germany
because of the commute traffic leaving Amsterdam.

9/12 The next morning we were again on the road, but construction and other
traffic problems allowed us to only make it to Heidelberg. I gave the girls
a tour of Darmstadt (where I used to work.)

9/13 We left Heidelberg Sunday morning (13th) and made it to Interlaken
Switzerland by 14:00. It was pedal to the metal all the way. No trucks on
the Autobahn on Sundays really helps. We found a nice hotel (Stella) and
checked in for two nights. We walked around town (M6 working hard.) The
last time I was here was 1980. What a change! The next morning we took the
Cog railway to Jungfraujoch. Even though it was completely covered in
clouds, it is awesome. When I was there in 1980, it was clear. I'm sorry
the girls didn't get to see the view of the glacier. I have pictures from
1980 that I'll put in the slide show. The station at the top has changed
dramatically since 1980. Progress I guess.

9/14 We went back down the mountain and, guess what... shopped in
Interlaken. I like Interlaken. I even shopped. I bought the Omega watch
that I've always wanted. At a very good price from a very reputable dealer
(Fiechter), and because he didn't have the band I wanted, arranged for me
to pick-up the watch at the Omega factory in Biel. We were going through
Biel on the way back to Germany the next day (16th) so it worked out
perfectly. The dealer (Hans Fiechter) was going to drive to where ever we
were going to be on the following day and deliver the watch but since we
were going through Biel, we just stopped at the factory. I have to tell you
that Hans Fiechter is a square shooter. This is why I went to a "real"
dealer rather than a tourist store. On the afternoon of the 14th, after
Jungfraujoch, I bought a watch from Hans. During that evening and next
morning, I found that it was much too difficult to read in low light as the
hands were nearly the same color as the background. On the morning of the
15th, I went back to the store and Hans, without hesitation, took the watch
back. A real honest gentleman. I then looked at other models and found
exactly what I wanted. And the rest I've described above. I paid 1800 Swiss
Francs. He gave me substantial discount, partially because I had to go to
the factory to get the watch. Here in the US, it is $2000, In Germany it is
DM 3500 everywhere, and 3800 Guilders in Amsterdam. It's possible I didn't
do all of my homework, but don't tell me if I didn't... I'm a happy camper!


9/15 We left Interlaken on the 15th and drove to Vallorbe. Most people
don't know about this, but there are limestone caves in the mountain behind
Vallorbe. The Alpa factory was in Ballaigues (a few miles from Vallorbe)
and I used to regularly visit Alpa. The Orbe river gushes out of the
mountain side and in the late 60's, early 70's, divers got up through the
rushing water (this is a fast, high volume, river) and found caverns on the
inside. Alpa made a waterproof case for their camera just for the
river/cave excursions. The photographs were awesome so the Swiss bored a
tunnel into the cavern system from the side, thus not disrupting the
natural river flow. They then erected steel catwalks throughout the caverns
(nearly 2km of catwalks) and put in lights. This is a awesome tour. We got
there at 14:00 hours and we were the only people there. We had the whole
place to ourselves. There is a building there now and you have to pay to
get in. I was there in the 70's just after it was opened. I was rough and
totally unknown back then. Now there are signs in Vallorbe that point to
the "Grotto". Boy did Vallorbe get big! And Ballagues is huge! I could not
find the old Alpa factory.


anyway... my M6 has been working feverishly all during this. My R7's have
not seen the light of day since England.

9/15 We drove on to Neuchatel, where we stayed the night (15th). On the
16th, we drove to Biel/Bienne, got my watch from Omega, then drove directly
to K=F6ln. We were in K=F6ln by 15:00 hours.

9/16 Actually, not having reservations anywhere, and knowing that
everything within a 50km radius of K=F6ln is full, I started looking in
Hennef (Sieg). Hennef was full but a little town 10km outside Hennef
(Uckerath) had rooms for us. Four nights at the Landsknecht hotel. This is
one great place!!! It is owned by the Landsknecht family (Mom, Dad, and
four daughters) and they all work there. The property has been in the
family for generations. They have added to it by building a new hotel
building five years ago. We got new rooms. They actually have 270 beds in
the whole place. They simply adopted us as part of their family. They
provided smoke free dining, made whatever we wanted for dinner, gave us the
run of the place. The kitchen is huge and modern. Showed me how to use the
Coffee/Espresso/Cappuccino machine so I could have what I wanted whenever I
wanted. They can serve 2000 people in their dining rooms without any
problems. In a little town, out in the boonies. What a find! It was a ten
minute drive from there to the train station in Hennef. Photokina tickets
give you free train usage in the whole Photokina (Messe) area. The K=F6ln
Deutz train station is at Photokina. Step out of the train, down the
stairs, across the street, and into Photokina. What a great four days.

9/17 I took the girls to Photokina the morning of the 17th. They were sick
of it within three hours so we went in to K=F6ln for the afternoon. The girl=
s
shopped. I photographed. M6.

9/18 I spent all day the 18th at Photokina (by myself) while the girls went
hiking in the Uckerath countryside. I looked at the new 35-70/2.8 ASPH. It
is larger than I expected. The filter size is 77mm, the same as the
70-180/2.8 APO. Actually, this is not bad. 35 to 180, two lenses, with one
filter size. I looked at the M6 TTL and did not like what I saw. It is
beyond my comprehension why they would change the direction of travel for
the shutter speed dial. If you are a first time M camera buyer, it's OK,
but after decades of the same camera style having the same operational
attributes, to change something as fundamental as the shutter speed dial
direction is totally illogical. It's no different than changing the f/stop
direction. Or the focus direction. And, they have eliminated the dimming of
the led's to tell you about over and under exposure. The leds now switch on
and off (no dimming) with another led in the middle, between the arrows, to
tell you that exposure is correct. This is bunk! There is no such thing as
a "dead-on correct" reflected reading unless you use an 18% gray card. So
being exact, with switched precision, with a semi averaging / semi spot
reflected meter, doesn't make sense to me. I like my dimming leds. I also
am very very used to moving the shutter dial opposite of the led direction
to correct the exposure. So if you have two M6 cameras, one a TTL and one
not, you'll be constantly trying to remember which one you are using. Also,
the larger speed dial looks cheap. So if I were to buy a second M6, instead
of buying the TTL version, which would be the proper choice, I would simply
buy a "classic" M6.


This is exactly one of the reasons I sold all of my Alpa equipment in 1976
and switched to Leica. Alpa did not make lenses, and adapted various
manufacturers lenses to their camera. Some lenses had the f/stop ring back
by the body, some had it out at the lens end, some turned clockwise to stop
down, some turned counter clockwise to stop down. The 24mm Angenieux had an
f/stop knob sticking up from the lens barrel. Totally confusing. You always
had to look at where the focus and f/stop rings were, and which direction
they turned. A royal pain in the posterior! And now Leica is nibbling at
similar inconsistences. WHY??? In the Leica/LUG meeting, Leica stated that
the reason the Tri-Elmar has the f/stop ring at the end of the lens, and
the focus at the base of the lens (this puts the focal length change in the
middle) is purely for consistency. Everyone I know would like the focal
length change to be at the base, the focus in the middle, and the f/stop
out front. Once the focal length was set, you could move your hand from the
f/stop ring to the focus ring, without having to jump over the focal length
ring. But Leica did it the way they did, to be consistent... So why isn't
the M6 consistent. And they had no good answer when I asked them why they
dropped the focus lever from the 50mm lenses but retained it on the 35mm
lenses. They mumbled something about lens size, knowing full well that the
35/1.4 ASPH (WITH FOCUS LEVER) is as large as the 50mm lenses.

Other than Leica, I spent a lot of time at Alpa, talking to the new folks
and looking at the MF Alpa. I like it. But I won't buy one. It's gorgeous,
and handles well, but I'm not interested right now. They also had a back
with a 28,000,000 pixel CCD sensor. The sensor is nearly the size of MF
film. This sensor has got to cost 10's of thousands of dollars.


For the trip, I bought a Porter Case (the Photo Plus version). It is a hard
case with a handle that extends and you can use it as a roll around case.
But the handle un-hooks and folds out making it a luggage cart (or dolly)
and I have to tell you, it is slick. I carried two suitcases, a backpack,
and a bag with 200 rolls of film, on the Porter Case (which itself had
lenses, tripod, and all kinds of stuff in it,) through airports, train
stations, hotels, etc, with ease. This thing works great! I lost the tie
down strap somewhere on the way to K=F6ln, and I bashed one of the handle
latches (my mistake). Porter Case had a booth at Photokina. They gave me a
new strap and a new latch for the handle. right there, on the spot. Great
people. Great product.

I looked at a lot of other stuff at Photokina, mostly digital (for work),
got samples of Ilford's new XP2 Super, played with the Hasselblad XPAN, got
a free Agfa conversion calculator, etc. The XPAN is certainly an
interesting camera. The film advance mechanism (and rewind mechanism) must
be really complicated.

9/20 On the 20th, we left Uckerath drove to Amsterdam. Stayed in the center
of town. On the 21st, we took a canal trip, shopped (the girls), I
photographed, we visited the famous Red Light District that evening which
has certainly gotten commercialized. Red Light Souvenir shops all over the
place. It wasn't that way 28 years ago (last time I was there). Amsterdam
is a beautiful city.

9/22 We left Amsterdam for home on the 22nd. Interesting... there were
armed guards (assault rifles) around all flights to the US. This is at the
counter, the gate, and outside around the plane. It took us 30 minutes with
a security interviewer just to get to the counter. Then at the gate, the
dreaded x-ray machine. Since we were very early, there was no one at the
machine. As soon as the personnel arrived, I asked about hand checking my
film. They said no. So I pulled the clear gallon bags out of the cloth bag,
and showed them that I had them all neatly lined up, in clear canisters, in
a clear bag, and you can see film sticking out of the cassettes. They took
one and looked at it (this was before the station was officially open).
They took my bag, pulled all of the film bags out and looked at each one.
Then put them all back and said OK. So I said, keep it over there on your
side and I'll pick it up after you are open and I come through. They said
OK. So the clear gallon bags and clear canisters saved my film from being
x-rayed. Plus the fact that I was there early enough that it did not
interfere with their normal operation. :) They actually made the comment
that it was so easy to check, they didn't mind. They also insisted that I
have fast film. Fortunately, the MS100/1000 film says 1000. In the future I
am going to put a few rolls of 1600 or 3200 film in each bag just so there
will be fast film there.


Well... that's all folks. You can wake up now.

Summary... the girls were thrilled with the trip. They visited really great
places, saw great sights. And were happy. I never once had anyone point and
say "Leica". I learned how to load an M6 in the dark.

Anyone have a 21 ASPH for sale?

Anyone want to buy a 90 Elmarit, latest model, mint?

Jim