Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/11/26
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]On Thu, 26 Nov 1998, Nigel B Watson wrote: > I've been hearing so much about this lens that I am seriously considering > obtaining one. I'd always considered it too long for a standard and too > short for a tele, but now I'm looking from another perspective, which is > that it might actually be the most economical way to have a super-fast M > lens for occasional low-light work, as opposed to both a 50/1.4 and 90/2 > (I currently own only 50/2 and 90/2.8). I'm searching for a second-hand > one in my travels, but until I find one to try out I'd appreciate some > feedback from anyone who has used this lens extensively... just a few > specific questions: I'M GLAD TO GIVE YOU MY OPINION BASED ON YEARS OF EXPERIENCE WITH THE 75/1.4 IN MANY DIFFERENT SITUATIONS. I HOPE OTHERS RESPOND TO HELP GIVE YOU A BALANCED AND TOTAL PERSPECTIVE BECAUSE I MUST TELL YOU THAT I THINK IF A PERFECT LENS WERE EVER CREATED, THE SUMMILUX 75 IS IT. > > Performance wide-open vs. the current 90 Summicron (both lenses date from > 1980)...does the 75 have the same low-contrast, slightly-soft rendition @ > "portrait" distances? IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A SOFT PORTRAIT, CONTINUE TO USE THE 90/2.0. THE 75 IS CONTRASTY WIDE-OPEN. HOWEVER, IF SOFTNESS IS NOT THE ISSUE, THE 75 CAN PRODUCE A GREAT PORTRAIT EFFECT BY VIRTUE OF ITS EXCEPTIONALLY SMOOTH TONAL GRADATIONS FOR SKIN TEXTURE AND COLOR. > Flare. How does it handle point-sources such as ceiling floodlights in > theatres? THE 75 IS ABSOLUTELY FLARELESS. PERFECT FLARE CONTROL. (UNLIKE THE 90/ 2.0) > Focussing. I'll be using mine on 0,72 viewfinder (which was the only > type available with 75 framelines for 17 years, so Leica must have felt > it was up to the task?) But has anyone who uses this lens on a 0,72 found > it difficult to get sharp focus @ f/1.4 in the 1m-5m range? I'VE GOTTEN PERFECTLY SHARP IMAGES AT F1.4 AT THE CLOSEST FOCUSING RANGE ON A 0.72. > Handling. What is the slowest handheld shutter speed you find > practicable with this lens to obtain acceptibly sharp images? Also, do > you find that having the lower right 1/4 of the frame obsured by the > lenshood presents an infuriating problem? I'VE GOTTEN VERY SHARP IMAGES AT THE CLOSEST FOCUSING RANGE HAND HELD AT 1/30. (I ALSO PRACTICE ALOT.) I'VE NEVER NOTICED THE LOWER RIGHT OBSCURING PROBLEM. I'VE LEARNED TO COMPENSATE WITHOUT THINKING BY MOVING THE CAMERA AROUND AND FINALLY SLIDING INTO THE FINAL FRAMING. A GREATER PROBLEM FOR ME HAS BEEN THE CLOSE-UP PARALAX CORRECTION. THE FRAMING IS TOO HIGH AND TOO RIGHT. THIS IS NOT A 75 PROBLEM, HOWEVER, IT'S AN M6 PROBLEM. (EVERY MODEL OF THE M6 I'VE USED IS OFF.) > Lastly, Eric mentioned a savings of $1000 by buying second-hand. The > least price for a used version in Mint to Mint- condition which I've been > able to obtain from any of the well-reputed dealers mentioned frequently > on the LUG is US$1699 compared to a new German version at US$2295. Even > $600 is a lot of money if the 2 versions perform identically. Is there > *any* advantage (beside a 40g weight decrease) to the new version? If > not, does anyone know what's missing from the new one that cut the > weight? > > Thanks so much. > Nigel > I HOPE I'VE BEEN OF SOME HELP. TOM P. > ___________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] >