Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/01/04
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BE37D1.5A001540 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit If want to try Hc 110 with Tmax 400, by all means be very careful in your aggitation-temperature procedures. Since you have relatively short developing times, your fudge factor goes a tad out the window. I have had most excellent results with Tmax 400 and D-76 1 to 1. I tend to develop a tad less than kodak says, and I tend to overexpose by 1/3 f stop. This theory works well when I want to print the resulting negatives on my Leica Focomat V35 (the best 35mm enlarger ever ever made). The longer development times are better in regard to producing a more even negative. By diluting the developer you are also cutting in half the sodium sulfite which may soften grain. You Another thing, make sure you use fresh fixer. With Tmax 400 you may get a magenta stain on the clear parts of the negs if you do not fix it long enough. With fresh Kodak Rapid Fix with hardner, you are looking at 5 to six minutes. With regular fixer it is longer. I would also recommend that you use a rapid style film washer to minimize film wet time. With some tinkering, you actually will become to like Tmax 400. It is a harder to use in some ways versus trix, but if properly handled it is a superb film. Actually, Tmax 100 is even better. If you get a choice exposure/image, it can look like you shot on 120 rollfilm. Good luck - ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BE37D1.5A001540 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" = http-equiv=3DContent-Type> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><SPAN class=3D110284915-04011999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2>If=20 want to try Hc 110 with Tmax 400, by all means be very careful in your=20 aggitation-temperature procedures. Since you have relatively short = developing times, your fudge factor goes a tad out the=20 window.</FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D110284915-04011999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D110284915-04011999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2>I have=20 had most excellent results with Tmax 400 and D-76 1 to 1. I tend = to=20 develop a tad less than kodak says, and I tend to overexpose by 1/3 f=20 stop. This theory works well when I want to print the resulting = negatives=20 on my Leica Focomat V35 (the best 35mm enlarger ever ever made). = The=20 longer development times are better in regard to producing a more even = negative.=20 By diluting the developer you are also cutting in half the sodium = sulfite which=20 may soften grain. You Another thing, make sure you use fresh = fixer. With Tmax 400 you may get a magenta stain on the clear = parts of the=20 negs if you do not fix it long enough. With fresh Kodak Rapid Fix = with=20 hardner, you are looking at 5 to six minutes. With regular fixer = it is=20 longer. I would also recommend that you use a rapid style film = washer to=20 minimize film wet time. With some tinkering, you actually will = become to=20 like Tmax 400. It is a harder to use in some ways versus trix, but = if=20 properly handled it is a superb film. Actually, Tmax 100 is even = better.=20 If you get a choice exposure/image, it can look like you shot on 120 = rollfilm.=20 </FONT></SPAN></DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D110284915-04011999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV> <DIV><SPAN class=3D110284915-04011999><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial = size=3D2>Good=20 luck</FONT></SPAN></DIV></BODY></HTML> - ------=_NextPart_000_0001_01BE37D1.5A001540--