Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/04/10
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]This is a multi-part message in MIME format. - ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01BE835B.D177BB20 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Actually Bob Shell is right!. You should open +1/2 when taking a = reading from a grey card outdoors. Not to burst any bubbles, but some of you graduates from _IT need to = check Kodak's technical publications before insulting him. The matter = isn't new actually -- Ctein published a few articles on the subject in = the now defunct Camera & Darkroom. Meters are calibrated to read approx. 13.5% - the average outdoor scene. = Grey cards are 18% - in the studio, and under even lighting, they will = give correct readings without any compensation. Light readings are a pretty complicated subject. The 18% problem is perpetuated, because over the years most camera = manufacturers, photo schools, publications, repair shops, and even our = dear LUG members insist wrongly that meters are calibrated for 18% grey. = As always, the important thing is to do what works for you. Hell, I = just take a reading from my hand and open +1 stop -- and then check the = highlights, if I have time.=20 This is yet another factor to take into account, as well as variations = in readings from two identical meters, the linearityof the meter = readings, light angle of incidence, readings of different colors, light = transmission problems, results from different labs, etc. Hope this is of help. Regards, Robert - ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01BE835B.D177BB20 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 = http-equiv=3DContent-Type> <META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Actually Bob Shell is right!. = You should=20 open +1/2 when taking a reading from a grey card outdoors.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Not to burst any bubbles, but some = of you=20 graduates from _IT need to check Kodak's technical publications = before=20 insulting him. The matter isn't new actually -- Ctein published a = few=20 articles on the subject in the now defunct Camera & = Darkroom.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Meters are calibrated to read = approx. 13.5% -=20 the average outdoor scene. Grey cards are 18% - in the studio, and = under=20 even lighting, they will give correct readings without any=20 compensation.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>Light readings = are a pretty=20 complicated subject.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The 18% problem is perpetuated, = because over the=20 years most camera manufacturers, photo schools, publications, repair = shops, and=20 even our dear LUG members insist wrongly that meters are calibrated for = 18%=20 grey. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>As always, the important thing is to = do what=20 works for you. Hell, I just take a reading from my hand and open = +1 stop=20 - -- and then check the highlights, if I have time. </FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>This is yet another factor to take = into account,=20 as well as variations in readings from two identical meters, the = linearityof the=20 meter readings, light angle of incidence, readings of different colors, = light=20 transmission problems, results from different labs, etc.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hope this is of help.</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Regards,</FONT></DIV> <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Robert</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML> - ------=_NextPart_000_003C_01BE835B.D177BB20--