Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1999/12/05

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Subject: [Leica] Leica Users digest V13 #83
From: owner-leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us (Leica Users digest)
Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 00:01:04 -0800 (PST)

Leica Users digest       Sunday, December 5 1999       Volume 13 : Number 083

Topics in this digest:
      ..... R7 & 32CT7 Part 2......
      Decisions, decisions (on topic - long)
      New guy's question about M2
    2 ...... R7 & 32CT7......
      RE: [Leica] FS Leica M6 0.85
      M6 meter

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 13:56:11 +0800
From: "claire" <clairetm@singnet.com.sg>
Subject: [Leica] ..... R7 & 32CT7 Part 2......

Dear All......
Further to my earlier message.......

One more query .......

Can the flash's green lite come on without the R7 showing the lightning
symbol in its viewfinder ?

Does this only happen when I'm using the f2/f4/f8/ selector on the flash ?

Conversely, does this NEVER  happen when the flash is on TTL mode ?

Thanks in advance
TMLee

- ------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 08:04:50 +0100
From: Nathan Wajsman <nathan.wajsman@euronet.be>
Subject: Re: [Leica] Decisions, decisions (on topic - long)

Hi Mitch,

I would definitely recommend buying a second-hand M6. Having a body with another
film is definitely important, as you point out yourself. If you need to keep
weight down (and raise additional funds) then you should also sell the lenses
you do not use. Upgrading from the Summaron 35mm to a Summicron 35mm sounds like
a good idea, and the pre-ASPH Summicrons are quite inexpensive (relatively
speaking, of course).

The 24mm is a great lens, but it may be hard to find on the second-hand market,
as people are not getting rid of them--they are too good! You also have the
additional finder to contend with. If compactness is the main consideration AND
you want a wider lens, then perhaps you should keep the Summaron and add a 28mm
Elmarit instead of a 35mm Summicron.

Nathan

Mitch Zeissler wrote, in part:

> I will have enough funds in the near future to either procure an additional
> M body *or* a wide angle lens, but probably not both.  My thoughts (which
> I've been wrestling with since this past spring, while saving up the
> necessary funds) are as follows:
>
> -  Sell the IIIf and Xenon to free up additional capital.  Possibly the
> Summicron 50 and the Hektor as well, since I use them so infrequently.
>
> -  Purchase another M body (new or used) so I can have both color and mono
> films instantly available.

- - --
Nathan Wajsman
Overijse, Belgium

General photo site: http://belgiangator.tripod.com/
Belgium photo site: http://members.xoom.com/wajsman/
Motorcycle site: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1704/

- ------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Dec 1999 23:57:28 -0700
From: John Collier <jbcollier@home.com>
Subject: Re: [Leica] New guy's question about M2

After loading new film, fire off two blank exposures ( some people only fire
off one) and turn the dial clockwise to zero position. Then wind on to your
first exposure. My dial requires a fair amount of force with a finger nail
(have not broke one yet). After all you would not want it to shift position
every time you put it in the camera bag. The position of the rewind lever
(or button) has no effect on the counter.

John Collier

>>original message:
>> Hi everyone:
>> I just got my old "new" M2 a couple days ago and became a proud
>> owner of Leica M. Now I have a question: the M2 has a manual adjusted
>> frame counter. How do I re-zero it when I finish a roll? I tried
>> to rotate the ring but it just refused to move after 4-5 ticks.
>> I also got a summaron 35/3.5 and elmar 50/2.8. I am still waiting for
>> the result back from the lab. Quite exiciting!!!
>> 
>> Min-yi Shen

> Mr. Howard replied:
> You should be able to just use your finger to rotate it.  The rewind lever
> may have to be engaged (that is, in the "R" position) for it to work.
> 
> I don't really know, since I never bother resetting it.  I just shoot
> until I reach the end of the roll, at which time you know it's time to
> reload.

- ------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 00:16:06 -0700
From: John Collier <jbcollier@home.com>
Subject: Re: [Leica] ...... R7 & 32CT7......

I would suspect that your bouncing the light from the flash reduced its
output resulting in the under exposure. I am not familiar with that
particular flash but most have a test button that you can fire to check your
flash output before you expose the film. If your subjects were predominantly
white in tone then your flash's ( or camera's) built in meter will
underexpose by one and a half to two stops as well. I sure we have all seen
press photographers busy at work with their flash set in the bounce
position; however, they have forgotten that they are outside with no
reflective surface to bounce their fill light!

John Collier



>TMLee wrote:
> Oh... I bounced the flash though......
 

- ------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Dec 1999 07:05:48 -0800
From: "Eric Welch" <ewelch@neteze.com>
Subject: Re: [Leica] ...... R7 & 32CT7......

>>Was the proper aperture set on the flash?
> 
> The aperture on the flash was set at f4.....

In auto mode, right? Not manual?


> The camera was on 'P' mode........ so I think it was 1/100s......

And you know the camera was being set by the flash? Being in P won't
guarantee the flash sync is set right unless the flash is set to auto
exposure or TTL.


>>Did you give it a few seconds after the green light to shoot?
>
> I shot when the green lite came on (removing the camera from my eye to see
> the green lite on the flash ).... I forgot to lookout for the red lightning
> symbol in the viewfinder.......

Flash usually aren't ready until several seconds after the green light comes
on.

> Oh... I bounced the flash though......

As long as it's in auto, and the sensor is pointed at the subject, it should
be able to do a reasonable job.

- ------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 23:05:29 -0800
From: "Frank Filippone" <red735i@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: [Leica] FS Leica M6 0.85

I have a list of M6 HM Serial numbers that I have collected over the past
years.... would you please contribute?
The list is over 100 long.... and I will be publishing it again for the end
of the year....

Thank You
Frank Filippone

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> [mailto:owner-leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us]On Behalf Of Ernst Leitz
> IV
> Sent: Saturday, December 04, 1999 8:45 AM
> To: leica-users@mejac.palo-alto.ca.us
> Subject: [Leica] FS Leica M6 0.85
>
>
> I have an almost-new M6 0.85 for sale... just the slightest hint
> of use on
> the strap bumpers.  Aside from camera body, includes body cap and
> presentation case.  Price is $1650 plus shipping of your choice.
> No takers
> by the end of the weekend and it goes to the dealer.  Located in
> Newark NJ
> metro area.
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

- ------------------------------

Date: Sun, 5 Dec 1999 01:54:44 -0600
From: "Mark Rutledge" <markrut@ticnet.com>
Subject: [Leica] M6 meter

I'm new to the list and relatively new to Leica, so please forgive the
rather dumb question.
I currently own a IIIa, and want to get an M. The meter in the M6 is
compelling, but the only info I can find on the metered area is that it is
"selective". Is this somewhere between spot and centerweighted? If it is
more spot, by the time you figured what is 18% gray in the scene, wouldn't
it be just as quick to use a handheld and get a much less expensive
M2,4-2,4P,? Any feedback is welcome.

Mark Rutledge
markrut@ticnet.com

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End of Leica Users digest V13 #83
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