Re: [Leica] tech pan notes

[DonjR43198@aol.com]

In a message dated 2/25/00 4:57:47 AM Central Standard Time, 
christer@almqvist.net writes:

<< Don,
 >thank you very much for the very detailed description of the TechPan
 >developing process. (I dont quote it here to save bandwidth
 
 FALSE ECONOMY
 please quote
 Chris >>

PROCESSING OF KODAK TECH PAN FILM (35MM AND 120)


A.  Developer

1. Use TEC compensating developer - it is a very simple developer that is as 
easy to use as D-76.

2. Add one ounce (1 oz.) TEC concentrate plus thirty ounces (30 oz.) 
distilled water.

3. Bring diluted developer to seventy degrees Fahrenheit. (70 °F).  Bring all 
solutions including wash water to the same temperature or within one degree.  
Be sure to use a good process thermometer that is accurate to 1/4 degree 
Fahrenheit.

4. Set the timer for eight (8) minutes.

5. Pour only enough developer into Nikor type stainless steel tank to cover 
one reel of film.  Have second film reel with no film on it to use as a 
filler to prevent the single reel containing the film from plunging up and 
down as the tank is inverted.  Idea is to use only enough developer to cover 
the film on one reel which will be placed at bottom of tank, then when tank 
is inverted, the developer will completely uncover the film and then 
completely cover the film when the tank is turned upright.  In this manner, 
you should receive much more uniform agitation and avoid the streaks created 
by the sprocket holes along the edges of the 35 mm film.

B.  Wind film on Nikor type stainless steel reel, slip the reel containing 
the film over the stainless steel lift rod so it is on the bottom and then 
the empty reel over the rod second.  Carefully lower the two reels into the 
developer tank, turn on the clock, and cap the tank.

C.  Agitation

1. Method of agitation.  The proper agitation is the inversion method and 
that is performed by holding the tank between the thumb and second finger so 
when you turn your wrist over the tank is turned upside down, and then when 
the wrist is rotated back to its starting point, the tank will be upright.  A 
single cycle of turning the tank upside down and then upright should take 
approximately two (2) seconds.

2. Initial Agitation -- agitate the tank nine (9) times and set the tank in 
the tempering vessel.  Be careful to hold the tank so the water in the 
tempering bath does not cause the tank to rock from the ripples created when 
the tank was returned to the bath.  If the tank rocks, the film-developer 
will be agitated which results in overdevelopment and unwanted contrast.

3. Agitate Once Each Minute After Initial Agitation -- When the timer shows 
the end of the first minute or the start of the next minute, agitate the tank 
twice.

D.  Film Rinse and Fixer - DO NOT USE A HARDENING FIXER

1. After agitating the film tank for the last time which is at the beginning 
of the last minute, remove the cap and lid, get ready to remove the two reels 
from the developer tank; then with ten (10) seconds before the end of the 
development period, lift the reels from the tank to drain the developer.

2. Slip the reels into a tank of rinse water the same temperature as the 
developer, and move the reels up and down gently for twenty (20) seconds, 
then drain for ten (10) seconds.

3. Slip the reels in the rapid fixer and gently move the reels up and down 
gently for the first thirty (30) seconds, let rest for thirty (30) seconds, 
move the reels up and down for twenty (20) seconds and then raise the reels 
from the fixer to drain for ten (10) seconds.

E.  Film Wash

    The Ilford archival procedure saves time and water.  Only three (3) 
changes of wash water are necessary, so have prepared enough wash water to 
fill your tank three times and the water must be within one degree Fahrenheit 
of the fixer.  Then follow this procedure:

Ilford says "This method of washing is faster, uses less water yet still 
gives negatives of archival permanence."

1. Fix it using Ilford Universal Rapid fixer.

2. After fixing, fill the tank with water at the same temperature as the 
processing solutions, and invert it five times.

3. Drain the water away and refill.  Invert the tank ten times.

4. Drain and refill it for the third time and invert the tank twenty times. 
Drain the water away.

F.  Anti-Static Rinse

        Thirty (30) seconds in ECCO 121 to reduce static and allow water to 
run off cleanly.

        This procedure provides me with a negative having a Contrast Index of 
approximately .52 that prints nicely on Ilford Multigrade IV with number 2 
filter.  It allows me to shoot Tech Pan at an honest E.I. of 40 and you may 
fudge to 80 or 100 depending upon the amount of shadow detail you feel you 
may do without.  I would welcome any comments that will improve this 
procedure.  E-mail DonjR43198@aol.com

Why not bracket starting at 12-25-40-50-75-80-100.  Then pick the one that 
really works best for you.  Right now, I kinda like E. I.  25 because it 
provides such open shadows.  My buddy at Houston likes E. I.  80.  So take 
your pick.

All of my outdoor work is done with a Sekonic incident lightmeter and with 
the sun at my back on a bright day, I shoot f/5.6 at 1/250 using the M-3 and 
various lenses.  That is the same as if I were shooting Kodachrome 25.  I 
have a Kodachrome color slide (E. I.  10) my cousin Ed took of me in 1948 in 
a clear water stream, in which one of my girl cousins was squirting a stream 
of water into my face, and although it was a handheld shot, the action is 
nicely stopped which suggests to me that for outdoor work on a sunny day, 
Kodachrome 25 is just fine thus leading to the further conclusion that Tech 
Pan at E. I.  25 is sufficient.  My preference is to tripod the M-3 for every 
shot possible.

Oh, yes.  I get the same Contrast Index whether shooting 35 mm or 120 Tech 
Pan.  Seems there is no difference between the sizes of film.

If I may be of further assistance, please let me know.

Don R.