Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2006/01/22
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Feli, The biggest problem is that jackets dont have a floating canvas....and that pants are cut too low. Thats why I never buy ready made stuff - in India bespoke of a very high quality is still available at a very reasonable price, as it is in Hong Kong as well. By the way, you will get high armholes and high waisted pants (to be used with braces) if you buy the classic high quality Brit ready made brands..they dont come very cheap, though. Cheers Jayanand feli wrote: > It seems that the two biggest problems these days with suits are the > size > of the armhole (too big) and the lack of the diamond shaped undercut > / plane > in the bottom of the pants, located between the base of your zipper > and the base > of your gluteus maximums. > > A large armhole, makes it easier to put a jacket on, but restricts > your mobility and > makes the jacket feel confining. It also screws up the fit around the > front, making your > lapels do weird things. Most importantly the moment you raise your > arms, the jacket > climbs up on top of you, looking like a scared cat. A properly cut > armhole, sits up high > underneath your armpit, like a T-shirt. Notice how far down it is in > a modern jacket. > Take a look at an old movie, with lets say Fred Astair. Fred will be > twirling around all > over the place, with his arms in the air, yet the body of his jacket > doesn't ride up on him. > If he tried that in a modern jacket it would probably ride up over > his head, obstruct his > vision and he would knock himself out as he crashed in to the nearest > wall. > > Modern pants lack a crucial undercut. If you examine a vintage piece > you will notice > a diamond shaped piece, located between the base of the zipper and > the base of your > gluteus maximums. Without this plane, your pants will inevitably > pinch around your family > jewels. If they are pleated, the extra material at the top just looks > like a sack, without structure > and they won't drape properly. Take a close look at an old movie from > the 40's and notice > how planar the fit around waist is and how elegant the line is, as > the pant legs reach the shoes.