Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2009/01/12
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]I am hoping to go to Peru in April: Bruce Barnbaum is holding a symposium, and the last one I attended was fantastic. Work is getting in the way at the moment :-( One thing I learnt from Bruce is that film has at least 12 to 14 stops of detail and that to really get fantastic shadow detail you should overexpose by a stop. I have therefore now rated all the films I use with my densitometer, and expose the shadows in Zone 4. This in effect usually means that the film would be rated 2 stops faster than on the packet, but with some film notibly APX 25 its 3 or 4 stops. I develop in rotory Jobos on an ATL 3 with ID-11 and HD 110 or Rodinal. My negs have never looked better using T max, Ilford Delta or the standard older emulsions. Mind you, I've never burnt in my prints as much ;-) Cheers alastair --- images@comporium.net wrote: From: Tina Manley <images@comporium.net> To: lug@leica-users.org Subject: [Leica] Neopan Advice Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 13:56:56 -0500 LUG: This trip I've decided to take only Leicas - my two M8's and one M7. I'm going to take B&W film and try to think in B&W again. I'm also taking my Noctilux which I love but have never been able to use with my M8's, so I'm looking forward to using that. I am worried about the high contrast that I'll run into in the Andes. When I was in Bolivia, the shadows were so black, I'm still trying to work with those photos. Slobodan, you suggested Neopan for blocked shadows. What developer do you use? Dilutions, temperatures and times? I use a Jobo so any suggestions you have for developing for film that will be scanned would be greatly appreciated. TIA, Tina Tina Manley www.tinamanley.com _______________________________________________ Leica Users Group. See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information