Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2006/01/27
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Simon, Hard water by definition has a lot of calcium carbonate in it which throws off the pH of the developer. A developer like Rodinal that uses NaOH to modify the pH will not miss a beat, whereas Xtol that uses a version of ascorbic acid will be terribly thrown off. In Atlanta where I live, the water is hard enough that I just use distilled water. Four litres is less than a dollar so this is not a big expense. For what it is worth, since I have started using distilled water for the final finse before drying, I have had almost no marks on my negatives. As to reels, just buckle down and buy a set of Hewes reels, not only are you supporting a local industry but you will have something that just works, is very easy to load, and lets you turn around and run another batch immediately without having to dry your reels. Unlike plastic reels and tanks, a stainless tank can be given a proper rap to remove air bells. With the move to digital stainless tanks are cheap enough to buy as water tumblers so you might even spend less money. Regards, Don don.dory@gmail.com On 1/27/06, Simon PJ <simonpj@mac.com> wrote: > > Scott and Don, > > Many thanks - that's exactly the kind of advice I was looking for to help > me > take the plunge and get back into b&w developing. > > I new I could rely on the LUG. > > By the way, we have very hard water here. How big a deal is that? > > Simon. > > On 27/1/06 9:05 pm, "Scott McLoughlin" <scott@adrenaline.com> wrote: > > > I use an inexpensive Patterson tank that holds two reels (that are > > very easy to load). An inexpensive changing bag (zipper, arm holes) > > let's me load the film in my living room. > > > > HC 110 keeps for ever, and using it with different dilutions and > agitation > > strategies for different situations (ISO, printing vs. scanning, > high/low > > contrast) is well documented around the web (photonet and APUG). > > > > I mix it one shot using a syringe. I got mine from my brother who works > > with hospitals, but I imagine a pharmacy can set you up - no needle > > required. > > > > Very convenient and economical. > > > > I have some graduated jars and measuring glasses I got from "The > > Container Store" that work just dandy. I also have a few funnels > > for filtering my water. I use tap water except for the final wash in > > distilled water. > > > > I generally use Ilford's fixer, but I'm not that picky. I've also used > > Sprint's fixer with and without the hardener, and it works great too. > > Clayton's odorless fixer is also popular. Kodak's fixer puts a bit too > > much curl in my negs, so I no longer use that. > > > > Sprint's fixer-remover (hypo) seems to keep much, much longer > > than Kodak's. It's colored too and fades with use, so you know when > > you need to mix a new batch. > > > > I dry my negs in a largish "dress bag" - the kind that hangs in a closet > - > > I also got at the container store. I hang mine over the show curtain > > rod in the bathroom. Keeps the dust off while drying. > > > > Really pretty straightforward once you adjust times/temp for your > > local water, metering habits and so forth. A few test rolls will you > > you there pronto. > > > > Best of luck! > > > > Scott > > > > Simon PJ wrote: > > > >> I haven't developed black and white at home for over fifteen years, but > >> would like to start again with TRI-X, and make sure that I make the > most of > >> whatever remains of the age of film! > >> > >> I know there is a huge fund of TRI-X wisdom on the LUG, and would be > >> grateful for advice on the practicalities of getting set up. I'm > thinking > >> not just of best developer for grain etc., but also such things as > >> shelf-life of chemicals for the my modest amount of shooting (e.g., > should I > >> buy in small or large volumes?). > >> > >> Factors to take into account: > >> > >> -- 1 to 4 rolls a week, with spikes up to 10 rolls a week about every > other > >> month. > >> > >> -- predominantly indoor available light shooting of people in > >> home/social/work situations: so 320/400 ISO and some pushing to 800 > (maybe > >> 1600) > >> > >> -- to be scanned by Minolta Dimage 5400 Elite > >> > >> I think this is probably a pretty common shooting profile amongst LUG > >> members. > >> > >> I'd be very grateful for any advice on chemicals for a practical set-up > >> taking into consideration the above factors, and a low level of skill > and > >> experience with b&w development. > >> > >> And if anybody thinks TRI-X is the wrong way to go, please suggest > >> alternatives! > >> > >> TIA, > >> > >> Simon, Cambridge UK. > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> Leica Users Group. > >> See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information > >> > >> > > > _______________________________________________ > Leica Users Group. > See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information >