Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/05/23
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]Your method seems a bit more sane......at least you attempt to pull off a focus before you shoot. You have a higher chance of hitting it within the sharp zone that someone who shoots hyperfocally without turning the ring at all. I also use the 35/2 ASPH on the M6HM and I love it for shooting street stuff AND models, believe it or not. Some of my favorite shots are with the 35/2 at about 5.6 or 8. Just enough DOF to show the surroundings and give nice bokeh, but not enough to be a distraction from the center of attention. I use the 50/2 for models as well and find it is perfect for getting in tight and for close up shots from about 1 meter. I almost always shoot this lens around 5.6 or 8 for adequate DOF close up. I rarely use my 90/2.8 for models since the frame is only 1/2 the finder and focusing precisely is sometimes difficult. Instead, I go to the R4 with the 100 APO and 180/2.8 when I want to get more distance. On recent shoots I have been using an M6HM with 35/2 ASPH and 50/2 and an R4 with 100 and 180. This provides all I need. My 24/2.8 ASPH and my 90/2.8 sit in the closet collecting dust. I never use them. Anyone want to sell a mint 280/2.8 APO-Telyt, 280/4 APO or a mint Noctilux? Trade? :-) At 06:14 PM 5/23/98 -0400, Michael Garmisa wrote: > >On 23-May-98 AJSymi wrote: >> In a message dated 98-05-23 02:11:37 EDT, you write: >> >> << How do you focus so quickly with an M6 on the street when a scene >> comes up out of the blue? >> >> >> I first pre-focus the camera using the focusing scale on the top ot the lens. >> For example, with the 35mmf2.0 asph lens, I set the aperture on f8 and set >> the >> "30" foot mark at the f8 mark on the right side of the lens. Now everything >> from about 5 to 30 feet in is focus. I then take an average meter reading (if >> the light changes with cloud cover or something, I"ll do this more often) and >> set the shutter speed (1/500, thereabout). Mind you, I'm using black and >> white film, with plenty of latitude. So if the exposure isn't dead on >> perrrrfect, we correct that in the darkroom. >snip > >I use a similar method, usually hovering over f8/11 and taking period readings >with a minolta autometer III as i feel the light changing, however I don't just >point and click. I do focus which is fairly quick since you dont have to go >back and forth to get the sharpest image like you do with a SLR. I don't worry >if the subject is perfectly in focus and just hit the shutter release at the >right moment, even if its not perfectly focused i figure the depth of feild >will give me enough lattitude to be off by a little. > >I use a 90mm collapsible elmar and am planning to buy a new lens. I'm trying >to decide between a 50 summicron or a 35mm summicron or summilux with goggles >(I have an M3). I noticed you use a 35asp, just wondering how well that works >on the street as I like the 90mm because it allows me to distance myself from >the action while remaining in a good place to record it. I thought the 50 >would be good enough for when I simply can't back up, but everyone seems to >really love the 35. Also the 90 is great cause it only takes half the >veiwfinder. Just wondering how you use like that 35 on the street, seems like >you would really be in the subjects face. What lenses does everyone else use >on the street? > >-- >Michael Garmisa <kilemall@shell.excelsior.net> ICQ# 11583837 >http://shell.excelsior.net/~kilemall/ 23-May-9818:14:38 >PGP key at: http://shell.excelsior.net/~kilemall/kilemall.asc > Francesco Sanfilippo, Five Senses Productions webmaster@5senses.com http://www.5senses.com/