Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/09/15

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Subject: Re: [Leica] Jumping in the soup (was "sharp B/W for Learners" / "improving leica images")
From: George Huczek <ghuczek@sk.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 16:56:43 -0600

At 09:43 AM 15/09/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Dan P., Richard W., Gary T., Eric W., John Maries, Alexey Merz,  Scott
>Green, et al.
>
>>I'M STARTING FROM SCRATCH to build my darkroom set up developing film
>for now. 
>
>1) What brand of fixer has a hardener built-in already - I don't want to
>have to remember to add a hardener to the fixer.
You don't need a hardener.  It causes longer washing times.

>
>2) What Fixer Remover is best - I had a note that referenced to "Perma
>Wash" - not sure what that is
I use Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent.  It works well.
>
>3) What Stop Bath / Wetting Agent chemical do I use 
Acetic acid stop bath, Photo-Flo is OK when used very sparingly

>4) For above items 1,2,3 -  how many times can I reuse the chemicals?
8 rolls of 35mm, for 500 mL solutions.  Trying to stretch your chemicals
any further can cause serious problems, especially if fixer reaches
exhaustion.

>
>5) Does the film squeegee serve the same function as a photo sponge (the
>book refers to the sponge for "wiping wet film after it is hung to dry")
Yes, they both serve the same purpose - to scratch the negs!
Don't use either.  As a final rinse, use distilled water, with 2-3 drops of
Photo-Flo per 500 mL of solution.  Let the film drip dry.  The distilled
water prevents water spots from forming.

>
>6) Whats your set up like for a dust free cabinet for hanging negs. Any
>tips on the drying process?
Natural, over-night air drying is OK for limited volume.  Build a sealed
cabinet, long enough to hold a full-length 35mm roll (or a half-height
cabinet and cut rolls in half.)

>
>7) Proper procedure of disposing the used chemicals
Avoid septic tank disposal.  This question is too involved for a simple
answer.
Mix spent developed and stop bath, mix used fixer and hypo clearing agent,
then dispose normally in the sink.  

>
>8) I plan to get stainless steel Hewes reels and a 2-reel tank from
>Kindermann.  Does anyone recommend using the Kinderman reels instead of
>the Hewes?
I tried them, but without the loader they are not easy to load, because of
difficulty reaching the center tab.  Hewes are good reels.  They load
easily and are durable.
>
>9) If I ever want to try the fast pour method by leaving the lid open
>and working in total darkness until the fixer's (or do I wait till  the
>fixer remover part is done?) done, what timing device is best and how
>does that work?
Pour in daylight through the lid.  There's no need to use a so-called fast
pour method with a double-reel tank.
>
>If there's anything else I should know about the developing process,
>just jump in !!
A process thermometer and a good timer are useful accessories.  Try the
Hana film clips.  They hold film well.  Eventually, get several tanks and
reels, so you can process a batch at a time.  This saves lots of time.


- -GH