Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 1998/12/19

[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]

Subject: Re: [Leica] DIY E-6 processing?
From: Walter S Delesandri <walt@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 19:08:30 -0600 (CST)

Hi, Andrew

This is going to draw a lot of heat.  Before I state it, let me 
state (for the "scientists" out there reading) that I've been 
to Kodak Process Management seminars more times than I wanted to, 
and I manage an instructional photo lab full time, as well as 
teaching.  EVERYTHING I'm about to say is heresy.

However, congrats on doing your own processing...  Don't let 
'em scare you.... In E-6 processing, there are very few 
critical steps..... the first developer MUST be controlled 
for time/temp....the reversal bath MUST be fresh and uncontaminated.
Other than those two steps, it's almost impossible to screw up.
The remaining steps are a "total" process-- as long as you 
don't "underdo" it, in time or temp, going OVER doesn't have any 
visible effect, within reason.....tolerances are something like 
75-125 degrees F/ time should be at least reccomended, but 
even twice the reccomended time has little (visible) effect.

So, keep the first dev. plus or minus five degrees, the reversal 
should be fresh, and take a "little" care with color developer...
Conditioner/bleach/fix -- don't even worry about it.....go for 
the normal time/up to twice normal, no problem.....

With C-41, it's even more tolerant, moreso than ANY b&w process.
Develop 3 1/2 mins, 90-110 degrees, and B/F the hell out of it...

And yes, of course we maintain tighter controls than this, but 
most of it's unnecessary.  It's just simple in a dip/dunk system 
to standardize, with LARGE tanks that all stay plus or minus
a degree, but it ain't necessary.   

In my own work, I'm MUCH more concerned with development of 
slow B&W film than my color stuff.....it's a lot more critical.

BTW, if the stabilizer bothers your skin/sinuses, and if you DON't 
live in a fungus-prone area, just use very dilute photo-flo instead.

We process thousands of rolls of E-6/C-41 a year, and I'll tell 
you the B&W (particularly slow films/minimal exposure) are MUCH 
more critical in the darkroom.  BTW, the RA-4 printing process 
is also EXTREMELY forgiving, if you're into color prints at all.
Unlike some of the other processes, you can do RA-4 in two trays 
at 80-100 F (90 sec each) and get GREAT home results......Don't 
even think about R-3, tho.......we have a small (20inch) processor 
and it's the biggest pain in the ass in the lab.

Good luck and keep it up, 
Walt
(as the Kodak-ees lose sleep worrying about all of this.......)