Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2000/02/21
[Author Prev] [Author Next] [Thread Prev] [Thread Next] [Author Index] [Topic Index] [Home] [Search]At 4:28 PM -0500 2/21/00, steve lehuray wrote: >Mike, >I really hesitate to offer any advice on repainting your M4-P. But, here >goes anyway. First there is a book which i had bought last year at Barnes & >Noble and then loaned it out and it has not come back yet. The name I think >is "Repairing Leica Cameras" and i remember the author's last name is >Twoomey. In the book there is a chapter on painting a Leica which includes >how long you are supposed to leave it in the oven and at what temperature. >It seems to me the hard part is going to be taking it apart. But, BIG BUT, >it looks to me like it would be possible to strip it down with the top plate >still in place by being very gentle with a medium sandpaper and a Dremel >motor tool (on slow) for the hard to get at places. And as far as the paint >I might have some really good news there. Because I have a wooden sailboat >and spend more time hanging out at marinas with other water rats than >shooting with my leicas, I have used many different paint coatings on wood, >metal and fiberglass. So, I recommend (and I think this will work) that you >follow the above advice of leaving the top plate in place. Then get a quart >of Benjamin Moore 'Urethane Alkyd Gloss Black Enamel' "INDUSTRIAL >MAINTENANCE COATINGS". When you sand off the top plate use a 60 or 80 grit >and then for the final sanding use a 120/140 grit (this will give the paint >something to adhere to) Put on 2 coats of dark grey primer with a sanding >between each coat. Then go for 3 coats of the gloss black. Let the >primer/paint set up for a day before doing the each coat and this paint is >very hard so i doubt it needs to be baked in the oven. As to how to apply >the paint spraying on would be best but for such a small surface area that >is alot of work. So you could try this; Roller, REDTREE 7/9R-22PH Dynex from >Redtree industries, Newark, NJ. These are fine grained rollers for gloss >work. Cut roller 1/2" with hacksaw. 1/2" and 1/4" china paintbrushes. Roll >on thin layer of primer/paint, then use brush dipped in thinner to tip out >any bubbles or high spots over the entire area painted with roller. Once it >looks smooth to the eye leave it to dry, the paint will settle down smoothly >(DO NOT TOUCH FOR AT LEAST 12 HOURS). This stuff is a miracle paint, I have >seen rusted metal on commercial fishing boats painted with this stuff and >after several years no rust is showing. Anyway good luck. >Steve >Annapolis Leaving on the top plate might be possible, but _TAKE OFF THE LENS_, or at least, put on a lens cap! Also, might be a good idea to use some black tape (refer to local authority) over the little glass windows. If, after all this, you see rust on your zinc top plate, you are entitled to start worrying. * Henning J. Wulff /|\ Wulff Photography & Design /###\ mailto:henningw@archiphoto.com |[ ]| http://www.archiphoto.com