[Leica] Xtol temperature

[mark at rabinergroup.com (Mark Rabiner)]

On 12/1/05 7:55 AM, "Wade Heninger" <lists@heninger.org> typed:

>>> The average temperature of your water is of no interest at all.
>>> What is of interest is the termperature of your developer when you
>>> develop film.
> 
> Why not just forgo all this averaging stuff and just use water baths to get
> that developer/water combo to 68 before pouring it into the tank.
> 
> Pour in developer, pour in tap water measured as close to 68 as you can, 
> and
> then use cold/hot water bath to bring the temp up/down with the thermometer
> in the mixture.  Takes a bit of time, but it gives you the actual temp at
> time of insertion.
> 
> That is what the rest of us do to control temperature and doing this
> eliminates one variable in solving your problem.
> 
> . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
> Wade Heninger
> Heninger Photographik
> http://heninger.org
> 
> 
> 
I remember the first controversy I ever created on the lug was when I told
everybody how if my darkroom was 70 degrees the standing water would be 68.
It was always exactly two degrees under the air ever since my first darkroom
when I was 13. I assumed that this had to be the case with everybody and was
a given. Theorem. Newton. Darkroom Dataguide.
But no.
The whole place went bananas. With our engineers and all.
That was the case and seems still to be now though. If it's 67 then my fix
will be that magic 65 number in which both developers and fix starts conking
out and it's not good. And I'd have to scramble and warm my fix and anything
else, stop up a few degrees into the safe zone. And not be happy.
Ideal for me would be a 72 degree darkroom so my water in there would be 70.
As that's my developing temperature for film and paper. But then at 72 I get
the sweats. And getting too much air moving around a darkroom to counteract
that is a mixed bag. Your breathing too much chemicals sure but the heater
thermostat in my Aristo variable contrast head which keeps the florescent
tubes balanced gets thrown off and has to work in overdrive. So my prints go
into "random" mode. Which is sometimes better than "Mark" mode.

Mark Rabiner
Photography
Portland Oregon
http://rabinergroup.com/