Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2014/04/16

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Subject: [Leica] Slippery Leica recovering
From: sonc.hegr at gmail.com (Sonny Carter)
Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2014 10:13:40 -0500
References: <8D126E623419152-1278-19F0E@webmail-m253.sysops.aol.com>

  Nice job Larry.  Cameraleather sells their M8/M9 griptac kit for $42
bucks.  It goes on real nice.


On Tue, Apr 15, 2014 at 12:20 PM, <lrzeitlin at aol.com> wrote:

>  RECOVERING A LEICA
>         I posted this about five years ago but in view of the complaints
> about slippery Leicas, it still seems relevant.
>         Vulcanite is Leica's cruel joke on Leicaholics. It becomes brittle
> with age and flakes off at the slightest excuse. Even Leica has abandoned
> Vulcanite on the new cameras, substituting a textured PVC covering.?
>         I have recovered several user LTM cameras, an M3, and an Olympus
> OM1 with 3M Safety Walk Nonskid Tape and have found it to be significantly
> better in appearance and handling ease than the original aged and battered
> Vulcanite. The nonskid tape is a resilient textured rubberlike material
> sold in hardware stores for $1.99/ft. in a 2" width. Greater widths are
> available. It comes in black, grey, and white colors with an adhesive back.
> The 2" width is perfect for LTM and M Leica bodies. I wouldn't recover a
> valuable collector quality Leica but it is just the thing for a hard
> working user camera. You can also play around with people's minds. I
> covered a IIIc in grey and panic fellow Leica fans when they think I am
> taking a Luftwaffe model on hiking trips in the Appalachians.
>         The process is quite simple. Remove the cracked Vulcanite from the
> camera. That's the easy part. Next make a paper cutting pattern for the
> nonskid material. Be very precise in marking the position and outline of
> the lens mounting flange, the strap lugs, and the baseplate lug cutout.
> Indicate the exact position of the two shell mounting screws and the slow
> speed dial on the LTM models. The paper pattern should wrap around the body
> shell and be joined just below the center of the lens mounting flange. When
> you are satisfied that the pattern is as good as you can get it, cut the
> nonskid material to the same shape using a sharp Exacto knife. Since the
> tape edges are perfectly straight, I have found it easiest to use one side
> for the upper edge of the covering, the part that fits next to the top
> plate. Use a leather punch to cut precise holes for the strap mounting lugs
> and the shell mounting screws. On the LTM cameras the slow speed dial is
> attached to the chassis. You can press
>   the soft material between the slow speed dial and the top plate. You
> will have to use your imagination in cutting the cover for the digital
> cameras
>         When the covering is cut to shape remove the backing paper and
> align it to the camera. The sticky adhesive permits some movement as long
> as it isn't pressed hard to the underlying surface. When you are satisfied
> that the nonskid material is correctly positioned, press it into full
> adhesion. The adhesive sticks pretty well immediately and sets quite strong
> within 24 hours. Check to see that the baseplate fits correctly. Slight
> corrections can be made with a sharp razor blade. If you've made an
> unfixable error, rip it off and try again. The stuff costs only about $2
> per camera.
>         A more daring alternative approach on the film Leicas is to remove
> the body extrusion entirely. I am hesitant about suggesting this latter
> method because most photographers are reluctant to take screws out of their
> camera. The body extrusion comes off easily by removing the black screws on
> the front of the camera and then the chromed screws on the top flange. The
> extrusion then slides off. The pressure plate and its springs will come off
> too. You now have a camera where the moving parts are open to inspection
> and a body extrusion. Wrapping a piece of paper around the body extrusion
> makes it very easy to make the template used for cutting the covering
> material. It is easy to mark the screw holes. Reassembling the camera is
> easy. Just slide the body back on, remembering to refit the pressure plate
> and springs, and put the screws back in the holes.
>         Try this first on your least desirable camera. It is not hard,
> just takes courage. Leica cameras are robustly made and it is hard to foul
> up the process. Just don't lose any of the screws. If they drop on the
> floor, you will never find them again.
>         Finally, most camera repair persons never bother about replacing
> the Vulcanite on tiny sections where it has chipped. They just drip a
> little black sealing wax, or black Crayola crayon wax, into the spot and
> press it flush with the surface of the remaining Vulcanite. I learned this
> trick from Sherry Krauter.
>         When you are done you will have a Leica that looks as good as new
> (at least the covering) and handles a lot better. True to its name, the
> nonskid material permits a firm grip on the camera and absorbs and cushions
> slight impact better than the factory covering. If you hate Vulcanite and
> don't want to spend $100 on a custom cover give this a try.
>         Here is a photo of a recovered camera. I did it a decade ago and
> both the camera and the covering are fine.
>
> http://gallery.leica-users.org/v/Larry+Z/Leica+IIIc+with+3M+Safty+Walk+Nonskid+tape_.png.html
>
>
> Larry Z
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Leica Users Group.
> See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information
>



-- 
Regards,

Sonny
http://sonc.com/look/
Natchitoches, Louisiana
1714
Oldest Permanent Settlement in the Louisiana Purchase

USA


In reply to: Message from lrzeitlin at aol.com (lrzeitlin at aol.com) ([Leica] Slippery Leica recovering)