[Leica] Xtol temperature

[abridge at gmail.com (Adam Bridge)]

On thing that has worked for me is to fill a 35mm plastic film
container about 3/4 full and then freeze it - with the plastic lid
snapped on of course. When I want to cool a solution I drop in one or
two of these and stirr for a while. Works great as long as you don't
get all excited, stirr too fast, and dislodge the pop-off lid. Mark
them for developer, fixer, etc.

Adam

On 12/1/05, Jeffery Smith <jsmith342@cox.net> wrote:
> I'm not sure where Feli is but, down here in the subtropics, the big
> challenge is finding water that is cold enough to use. In the summer,
> it is common to get water out of the tap that is 85F-90F. As a
> result, I've started refrigerating water to drop the developer
> temperature to 68F. I tried 75F many times, and it just doesn't seem
> to be what gives the best results.
>
> Jeffery
>
> At 04:15 PM 12/01/2005, you wrote:
> >On 12/1/05 7:55 AM, "Wade Heninger" <lists@heninger.org> typed:
> >
> > >>> The average temperature of your water is of no interest at all.
> > >>> What is of interest is the termperature of your developer when you
> > >>> develop film.
> > >
> > > Why not just forgo all this averaging stuff and just use water baths 
> > > to get
> > > that developer/water combo to 68 before pouring it into the tank.
> > >
> > > Pour in developer, pour in tap water measured as close to 68 as
> > you can, and
> > > then use cold/hot water bath to bring the temp up/down with the 
> > > thermometer
> > > in the mixture.  Takes a bit of time, but it gives you the actual temp 
> > > at
> > > time of insertion.
> > >
> > > That is what the rest of us do to control temperature and doing this
> > > eliminates one variable in solving your problem.
> > >
> > > . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
> > > Wade Heninger
> > > Heninger Photographik
> > > http://heninger.org
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >I remember the first controversy I ever created on the lug was when I told
> >everybody how if my darkroom was 70 degrees the standing water would be 
> >68.
> >It was always exactly two degrees under the air ever since my first 
> >darkroom
> >when I was 13. I assumed that this had to be the case with everybody and 
> >was
> >a given. Theorem. Newton. Darkroom Dataguide.
> >But no.
> >The whole place went bananas. With our engineers and all.
> >That was the case and seems still to be now though. If it's 67 then my fix
> >will be that magic 65 number in which both developers and fix starts 
> >conking
> >out and it's not good. And I'd have to scramble and warm my fix and 
> >anything
> >else, stop up a few degrees into the safe zone. And not be happy.
> >Ideal for me would be a 72 degree darkroom so my water in there would be 
> >70.
> >As that's my developing temperature for film and paper. But then at 72 I 
> >get
> >the sweats. And getting too much air moving around a darkroom to 
> >counteract
> >that is a mixed bag. Your breathing too much chemicals sure but the heater
> >thermostat in my Aristo variable contrast head which keeps the florescent
> >tubes balanced gets thrown off and has to work in overdrive. So my prints 
> >go
> >into "random" mode. Which is sometimes better than "Mark" mode.
> >
> >Mark Rabiner
> >Photography
> >Portland Oregon
> >http://rabinergroup.com/
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >_______________________________________________
> >Leica Users Group.
> >See http://leica-users.org/mailman/listinfo/lug for more information
>
>
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