Archived posting to the Leica Users Group, 2009/01/11

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Subject: [Leica] Re: LUG Digest, Vol 38, Issue 286
From: socphoto at verizon.net (Carl Socolow)
Date: Sun Jan 11 11:18:31 2009
References: <200901111909.n0BJ87jA083246@server1.waverley.reid.org>

Tina wrote:

Message: 27
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 13:56:56 -0500
From: Tina Manley <images@comporium.net>
Subject: [Leica] Neopan Advice
To: lug@leica-users.org
Message-ID: <200901111856.BGS09524@rg4.comporium.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed

LUG:
This trip I've decided to take only Leicas - my two M8's and one 
M7.  I'm going to take B&W film and try to think in B&W again.  I'm 
also taking my Noctilux which I love but have never been able to use 
with my M8's, so I'm looking forward to using that.  I am worried 
about the high contrast that I'll run into in the Andes.  When I was 
in Bolivia, the shadows were so black, I'm still trying to work with 
those photos.

Slobodan, you suggested Neopan for blocked shadows.  What developer 
do you use?  Dilutions, temperatures and times? I use a Jobo so any 
suggestions you have for developing for film that will be scanned 
would be greatly appreciated.

TIA,

Tina

Tina Manley
www.tinamanley.com


Tina,

For the work I've been doing on my project in Mexico I've been using Tri-X 
processed in Xtol 1:1 at Kodak recommended times. I rate the film at ISO 
400. Generally, when I'm outside working my default exposure is 1/500 @ f11 
or f11.5 so I have a pretty good contrast range between highlights and 
shadows in full sun. I've found that the lattitude of the Tri-x coupled with 
the developer helps keep my shadows open. That, along with the ability of my 
Leica glass to see at least 1.5-2 stops further into the shadows than my 
Canon glass has given me the confidence I need to work in a broad range of 
lighting.

When I did newspaper work my boss always insisted that we stick to one film, 
learn it and work with it. We didn't have time to change emulsions as the 
day wore on. And we couldn't afford to make mistakes that inevitably happen 
when you're switching back and forth.

I have used TMax films, TMY ISO 400 but I found the lattitude too tight, 
almost like transparency film, so I've gone back to Tri-X and found it very 
workable. I also like its plasticity and classic look.

You can see some examples on my Mexico pages at: www.carlsandersocolow.com

Best,

Carl




Replies: Reply from s.dimitrov at charter.net (Slobodan Dimitrov) ([Leica] Re: LUG Digest, Vol 38, Issue 286)
Reply from images at comporium.net (Tina Manley) ([Leica] Neopan Advice)